martes, 2 de junio de 2015

Unos dias por Rodellar

Recién llegado de Andalucía decido pasar por Rodellar tres días, ya que hacia algunas semanas que no veía a mi padre (Novato).  Tenia algunos deberes pendientes del año pasado como la Madame Croché 8c+  o la Madre tierra 8c. Venia con la intención de hacerlas en estos tres días, antes de empezar los proyectos de verano. El viernes llegue como a las 16;00 a Rodellar pase a recoger a Novato por su caravana y nos dirigimos a la Bóveda donde calenté en la misma vía, la Madame Croché. Esta preciosa ruta abierta por mi amigo Carlos Logroño (Citro) ya la había probado el año pasado, donde me caí llegando al top porque se me fue un talón y desde aquel día no la había podido probar mas.
Le di un pegue para recordarla, calentar un poco y casi sin descanso llego al suelo, tiro de la cuerda, me hago el nudo y le vuelvo a dar!!! pero esta vez hasta el top!!!
Es una vía preciosa, muy física y con un boulder en el techo. En mi opinión es un poco suave para 8c+.
El segundo día voy con mi padre a la cueva de los Cazadores donde tiene su proyecto "La Makoki" 8b y para mi sorpresa se cae en la parte final de la vía, saliendo al top... Realmente increíble verlo moverse así por ese pedazo de techo. Es todo un ejemplo de motivación, constancia, pasión... Seguro pronto lo conseguirás maestro!!!
Después de su intento magistral nos vamos al sector Bóveda donde se encuentra la Madre Tierra una vía abierta por mi amigo Pita. 
Casi no tenia piel y tenia que gestionar muy bien los intentos para que no me sangraran los dedos, porque todavía no había recuperado la piel de mi viaje anterior a Andalucía. 
Calenté en la vía para encontrar los métodos y le di un intento fallecido porque se me rompió un canto... Casi ya la tenia!! pero al rato llega el mas grande de todos los Marin 'es mi hermano Alex.
Esta fanático perdido, os cuento... Sube solo desde Barcelona a Rodellar para el día con la intención de darle un par de intentos a su proyecto "La Coliseum" 8a para luego bajarse porque trabaja al día siguiente bien temprano en la babylon.  En esta familia nos estamos volviendo locos!!!!!
Con este ambiente familiar tan fanático decido montarle su proyecto para que pueda darle un pegue a muerte. El primer intento se cae pasada la sección clave... Descansa una hora y media... "Vamos tete que la partooooo" me dijo. Me sentía súper nervioso mas que cuando escalo yo... Deseaba ver a mi hermano cumplir su sueño, chapar la cadena del que seria su primer 8a. Estuvo muy cerca, se cayo entrando al top, su mejor intento!!! 
Yo decido descansar tenia la piel fatal...
El domingo al medio día bajamos a la Boveda y al tercer intento me hice con Madre Tierra, para mi opinión un duro 8c.
Hace muchos años que no me sentía tan motivado con tantos proyectos y ilusiones.
Haciendo un recuento de mis últimos dos meses;

-Reina Mora 8c+/9a
-Matar a Platon 8c+
-Chilam Balam 8c+ (primer largo)
-Chilam Malegnum 9a
-Madame Croche 8c+
-Madre tierra 8c

Y en Junio empezamos el proyecto... The Marin's Alps project.  Tic-tac-tic-tac....



                                                       Foto; David Munilla
                                                       Via; Chilam Balam


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