jueves, 17 de julio de 2014

Pan Aroma ya no es un sueño.



Hace doce días todavía estábamos en casa preparando las maletas y recogiendo material en Vertic...Aprovecho para  darles las gracias por su gran apoyo en este proyecto, sobre todo a Kiko!!
Ya estábamos a punto de salir y cargar los bultos en la furgo cuando vi que mi padre cargaba con cuatro mochilas... Padre, ¿que llevas ahí? Ropa de recambio, no quiero pasar frío...Abrí las mochilas para revisar si podíamos ir más ligeros y.... cuatro pares de botas, dos gore-tex, tres gorros, once pares de calcetines...Jajaja, me puse a reír ¿Padre que vas a poner la parada en Dolomitas?
Y así  entre risas empezó nuestro viaje hacia Dolomitas.

Llegamos a Dolomitas el miércoles día 2 a mediodía, cuadrados del largo viaje pero sin pensarlo demasiado fuimos directos a la pared, hacía sol y teníamos que aprovechar el día, así que nos pusimos a escalar los cuatro primeros largos de Pan Aroma y fijamos las estáticas hasta el techo.

El Jueves día 3 bien temprano ya estábamos "jumareando" por las estáticas para probar el largo de 8b+ . Éste era el largo clave debido a la rotura de unos cantos por lo que la posibilidad de liberarlo era una incógnita.
Ese día me saqué el carnet de piloto, vaya vuelos, a cada caída aparecía por debajo de mi padre.
Me recordaba un poco al estilo del psicobloc, no puedes ensayar cómodamente las secuencias, caes, "jumareas" y vuleves a empezar, caes "jumareas" y vuleves a empezar...
Este largo tiene 60 metros y cuatro parabolts, con caídas de factor dos, la cuerda rozaba con los cantos de los  techos por este motivo los primeros días utilizamos cuerdas dobles. Estuve probando durante horas y no fue posible encontrar el método y chapar el alejado seguro.  Ese día fue duro ya que teníamos  dudas sobre su posible liberación.

El viernes día 4 a primera hora de la mañana con los primeros rayos de sol estábamos a pie de pared, estaba decidido a dejarme la piel para encontrar el método en esa secuencia siempre tan húmeda, pensé que tenía que aprender a escalar en este estilo entre mojado y húmedo. Caía y caía...Pero en el noveno intento le dije a mi padre, creo que he visto algo... Una pequeña regleta arenosa para revotar a un hombro, poner un talón izquierdo y coger un invertido para lanzar a otra regleta con izquierda.
Lo tengo padre ahora lo hago, y efectivamente al décimo intento logré pasar. Menudos gritos de alegría, fue un momento eufórico  ya que era muy importante para seguir con el proyecto. Nos dio mucha motivación para no sentir el cansancio y volver bien temprano la mañana siguiente, a las 7 de la mañana ya estábamos a pie de vía.

Sábado día  5 con el largo de 8b+ fijado ya que los techos son enormes y de lo contrario no te permiten volver a la pared si no utilizas ese método, aprovechamos para volver a probar el largo roto y continuar para probar el último largo de 8c. Para mi sorpresa pude resolverlo rápidamente con una sola caída, me pareció más fácil que el anterior tanto físicamente como psicológicamente.

Domingo día 6 ensayando un poco más la vía.

Lunes día 7 intento prematuro a Pan Aroma, necesitaba saber donde podía fallar, y efectivamente los primeros fallos fueron los roces de la cuerda, tuvimos que poner alargos de hasta dos metros para mejorar el deslizamiento de la cuerda sobre todo en los últimos chapages, aproveché para ensayar un poco más la sección clave.

Martes  día 8, descanso obligado por el mal tiempo y el cansancio acumulado que no era poco...
así que bajamos a Cortina D'Ampezzo para hacer la compra y probar la pizza Italiana, muy rica!

Miércoles día 9, sigue el mal tiempo en Dolomitas, que bajón con la pared tan cerca...

Jueves día 10, volvemos a la pared cansados de esperar el buen tiempo pero las condiciones son muy malas ya escalando los primeros largos se puso a nevar, mucho frío, no nos sentíamos ni los pies ni las manos, curtimos pero bien... 

Viernes día 11 siguen las bajas temperaturas, decidimos descansar ya que al día siguiente dan mejor condición...

Sábado día 12, después de diez días en Dolomitas y de un duro trabajo en la vía sentía una enorme presión por este proyecto, había puesto mucho esfuerzo en él, y no sólo yo, había involucrado a mi padre, le había hecho pasar frío, cansancio, largas horas asegurándome...Así que había que darlo todo para que fuese posible y ponerle el punto a la ruta e intenté concienciarme que era el día elegido, mañana la hago!!
Llamé a mi madre, mi hermano, mis amigos, Paula... intenté darle voz a ese deseo, explicarles que iba a hacer la vía, eso me ayudó a creer que era algo más real, algo factible, ya no era yo sólo que pensaba que iba a encadenar sino que la gente a la que quiero también estaba conmigo, y así fue!
A  la mañana siguiente nos levantamos a las 5h de la mañana, desayuno y hacia la pared. Ya teníamos la comida y el agua en el último largo de 8c para no cargar peso innecesario.
A las 7h empezaba nuestra ascensión, hacía un día inmejorable y yo me seguía repitiendo, hoy es el día! El muro estaba bastante húmedo, la verdad es que me costó llegar debajo del techo, los cuatro primeros largos los convertimos en dos, un buen calentamiento!
Ya estaba debajo del primer techo, el largo más duro e importante, cepillé algunos cantos en la travesía ya que siempre están mojados o húmedos y sabía que no podía fallar ya que si tenía que probar demasiado la primera parte llegaría cansado al último largo de 8c. Padre, vamooos!!
Conseguí pasar el primer crux! En el descanso pensaba, todo va bien Edu, pero aún quedaba el segundo y más difícil tramo, el de las presas rotas. Me sentía observado por varios escaladores del lugar entre ellos la cordada Italiana con Jacopo Larcher. Escalé tranquilo, me sentía bien y pude llegar a la ultima sección del bloque y empecé a gritar, sssssiiiiiiiiiiii!!!, jaja, que disfrute de momento, aunque segundos más tarde me tranquilicé, aún quedaban 50 metros de travesía hasta la reunión. Por el momento todo marchaba como había pensado, como había soñado, un solo largo más y lo habríamos conseguido.
El largo que venía a continuación era el de 8c, teóricamente el largo más duro de Pan Aroma antes de romperse los cantos en el 8b+. Este largo tampoco lo tenía encadenado, pero estaba dispuesto a darlo todo por liberarlo, el haber encadenado el largo anterior a la primera fue una inyección de adrenalina, pura motivación.
Llegó mi padre a la reunión, Eduuuuuuuu!! Venga que la tenemos me decía. Y le veía realmente confiado en mí, y si mi padre pensaba que era posible, lo iba a ser. Venga padre, píllame ya, que quiero acabar con esto ¿Seguro? ¿No quieres descansar más o probar más el 8c? me decía...No padre voy de una, a muerte!!

...se me rompió un pie al empezar el techo, la cuerda no me entraba en la primera cinta de dos metros...Joder pensé, es el ultima largo así que vamoooos, acelera!! Así que nada de asegurar, al viejo estilo, gritando en cada paso, sacando la adrenalina, lo di todo y conseguí chapar la cadena del ultima largo duro. No podía para de llorar de la emoción y mira que no soy yo de lagrima fácil. En ese momento, me di cuenta de la enorme presión que llevaba dentro, no quería fallar a los que me habían apoyado en este proyecto a toda la gente que me estaba siguiendo a todos los padres e hijos que me habían escrito dando su apoyo. Buuahhh, que sensación de felicidad, que libertad, que bien me sentía!
Padreeeee, le gritaba, lo hemos hecho, lo hemos conseguido! Cuando llegó a la reunión nos dimos un abrazo de cinco minutos, los dos estábamos tremendamente emocionados!
Lo hemos hechos, lo hemos conseguido, cuanto poder tiene la motivación!
Hay una frase que dice así, "Donde van tus pensamientos van tus pasos". Bien, pues mis pensamientos estaban en aquella cima y allí iban a ir mis pasos!
Todavía nos quedaban dos tiradas de 7a y unos  350 metros por la clásica Cassin, así que fuimos alternando los largos ya que mi padre quería escalar y íbamos bien de tiempo, eran alrededor de la 13h.
Disfrutamos mucho los últimos largos hasta que una nube enorme apareció por el sur-oeste, le tocaba a mi padre escalar y se puso el gore-tex por lo que pudiese pasar. Empezó a subir una niebla super densa que no me permitía ver a mi padre abriendo el largo, y más tarde se puso a llover. ¡Qué mala suerte tengo con el tiempo en Dolomitas, pensaba...mi padre se demoró bastante ya que las condiciones eran muy malas, lluvia, frío, niebla...La cuerda se estaba acabando así que imaginé que estaría buscando refugio y me puse a escalar en ensamble.
Efectivamente mi padre estaba debajo de unos techos y me aseguraba en contraposición en unas enormes piedras. Nos miramos y rápidamente supimos que allí íbamos a pasar un largo rato. El largo rato pasó a ser el resto de día y la noche. Y menuda noche, que infierno, ligeros de ropa, empapados, dolor de pies del frío...Nos calentábamos los pies, yo se los ponía un rato en su pecho y luego me los ponía él a mi. Hacia las 5.30h, me puse los gatos mojados y decidí ir a por mis pensamientos, vamoooos,  hasta la cima!!

Domingo día 13, estaba nublado pero la niebla empezaba a abrir, la pared estaba mojada pero daba igual quería llegar a la cima. Le cedí el ultimo largo de los 4 a mi padre, sabía que él había luchado tanto como yo, que había puesto la misma energía en esto y pensé que lo merecía,, vamos padre, es tu turno!

Hicimos cima en Panaroma el dia 13 de Julio.

El día 13 de Agosto del año anterior coincidiendo además con mi cumpleaños, también hice cima en Bellavista con Sasha, un día 13 también nació mi padre, y el 13 también se casaron mi padre y mi madre. No hace falta decir que el 13, es mi número!!

Ahora ya hace unos días de la ascensión, y todo el mundo me pregunta la opinión respecto al grado de la vía después de la rotura de los cantos en el largo de 8b+.
Sin duda, lo que puedo decir es que ahora ese es el largo más duro. Es una vía difícil de graduar, ya que tiene un factor psicológico importante y es bastante física debido a los techos. La roca se descompone bastante y hay muchos cantos que te los encuentras húmedos o incluso mojados, es decir que hay factores que pueden influir mucho en la cotación de los largos duros, pero creo que el antiguo largo de 8b+ ahora ha quedado de 8c, y en cambio el largo siguiente que estaba de 8c, me parece más bien 8b+.

Sin duda el entorno en Dolomitas es espectacular, lo ha sido también la gente que nos hemos encontrado en él, pero sobretodo lo que más me ha llenado estos días (cierto es que poder encadenar la vía ha sido muy grande) ha sido la compañía. Posiblemente podría haber tenido un compañero más fuerte, o más joven, incluso más guapo, pero nunca hubiese podido ser un mejor compañero.

De momento seguimos en Dolomitas para la grabación con Namuss Films y Pumba produccions.
Muchas gracias a Mammut, Vertic, TTR, Boreal, Bou y Top30.



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